"Mahabs" (as the ex-pats call it)

Beloved --
Full moon over the Bay of Bengal on January 10th, on-shore breeze, lots of tourists, but the shop-keepers here don't seem too assertive. This seems a good place to buy some of the remaining items I need for Thailand--silk sleeping bag liner (originally a hammock), Odimos (bug juice), white cotton head scarf (invaluable for the dust and boiling sun).
The fishing boats here are painted with two or three broad bands of colors. The middle band, typically white, has "adverts" for Jesus or Ganesh or perhaps a hotel in the vicinity. (I subsequently found out that these are in gratitude for the people and organizations that materially helped the fishermen get back to work after the Boxing Day tsunami). The Sea Shore Restaurant--where I'm enjoying my daily Kingfisher Strong--has before and after pictures of the T-SUNAMI (sic). It looks to me as if it has been rebuilt to its former glory.
The touristy areas were the first to rebuild after the tsunami. The relief offices have closed shop; but the people in the outlying communities are still suffering terribly. As an example, a lot of the poor work in salt flats near the coast. Their resource (salt) was all washed away by the waves. It will take several more years to re-establish the salt works. In the mean time, they are barely scratching out a living.
I have met with the president of the local school council (Kumar) and his friend (Samsu) who are trying to continue the work begun by the NGOs immediately after the tsunami. It is much harder for them now, since what they are trying to do is less visible to the outside world. On my next visit to Mahabs, I'm going to tour the villages with Samsu to get some pictures. "In the hopes that people will continue to help," says Samsu. (Anyone wanting to volunteer is invited and will be put up for the length of your stay. I'll post e-mail contact information soon.)
I happened to be in Mamallapuram during the month long "Festival of the Dance 2008-2009" and took in two evening performances. The venue was spectacular (if small) with the backdrop of the bas relief "Penance of Arjuna" carvings and the ubiquitous goats climbing all over the rocks. (Anyone know enough geology to explain how all this granite got here?)
On Sunday the 11th I rented a bike for the day(IR 50 or about $1.00 for the day). The bike was a lot like the one I had on my paper route oh so many years ago in Chicago and was probably just as old. Rode the 15kms (one-way) to the Vedagirishvara Temple (Shiva) in Tirukkalikundram. There are over 550 steps to the top of the hill where the temple is located and is a famous pilgrimage site. It is famous for the myth/fact that two eagles (some guide books say kites) appear at the temple each day at noon to be fed by the priests. I must have missed them! It was a long hot bike ride. After a chicken biriyani and a beer, I was ready for a nap.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim