Chennai reflections

Beloved --
I have exhausted Chennai (for now) and have become exhausted by the city. . . .the noise, the pollution, the poverty, the language difficulties, the autorickshaw drivers, etc., etc. I'm leaving for Thailand tomorrow and hope to find a little tranquility in the hill country around Chiang Mai.
Before leaving, Anna and I have toured all the Chennai cultural sites mentioned in the "Lonely Planet" guide to S. India. I'm sure there are many more that we haven't come across.

What has impressed me besides all the ancient bronze sculpture and rock carving, some dating to the 4th century B.C.E, is the production of modern art work. We've seen some delightful oil paintings, watercolors, and tempura works. Some very pastoral and/or impressionistic. Quite a contrast from the elaborate ornamentation of the temple art and its derivatives.

And the quantity and quality of the cotton and silk fabrics here exceeds all expectations.

Of course the Bollywood MTV numbers that appear on every TV in every restaurant I've visited are hard to follow. Huge "production numbers" with elaborate costumes and every camera trick in the book are what prevails. The theme always seems to be boy meets girl, girl rebuffs boy, boy rises to the challenge, girl changes her mind but has to convince her parents, they run away in a very fast car/motorcycle chase. The music is quite lively and the dancing a wild combination of 1930s Hollywood, classical Indian, and rap. My mind is spinning.

The 'Hindu Times' reported that the day I went to Marina Beach (Jan 16th) to witness the Pongal festivities was the day that the largest crowds ever attended the outing. Security was tight. The paper reported over 5,000 security personnel in attendance half of them in plain clothes. There were uniformed police--both men and women--positioned every 10 meters or so along the main walkway. When I found a bit of shade to sit, have a drink of water, and empty the sand out of my Keens, I drew a small crowd of curious kids, all dressed in their holiday best. A police officer walked over to where I was sitting and kept the crowd from getting too close. I was a big draw, I guess. . . .a westerner sitting in the shade, drinking bottled water with his sandals off. The officer was very gentle with the kids, but very protective of "my space. "

After about 10 minutes, refreshed and cooled off (it was in the mid-90s by this time), I got up and moved on after giving the officer a heartfelt "Nandri"("Thank you"). He responded with the biggest smile I'd seen all day. A little Tamil goes a long way. Aside from the "auto" (tuk-tuk) drivers, everyone I've met in Chennai is very friendly, very helpful, and always smiling back at me.

During my four hour walk I don't remember seeing another westerner. . . .a real stranger in a strange, but hospitable, land.

And now to pack for Thailand and beyond.

I love you and miss you all,

Jim