Beloved --
Three hours on Air India across the Bay of Bengal and Andaman Sea to Thailand. As we start our descent over Myanmar, I'm taken by how beautiful the former Burma appears. From 30,000 feet I guess the details are washed out, huh? Coming into Bangkok everything looks so orderly--patches of neighborhoods of look alike houses with red tiled roofs and white walls. So tidy and organized after Chennai!
The Bangkok airport is wonderfully new and well run. I pass through customs and immigration in a snap. Helpful people everywhere! I'm greeted by a beautiful young Thai women holding up a sign with my name--she's the transfer driver to the Thai House (see their website!) in a new Camray with a/c. I don't hear one horn during the 45 minute drive to the guest house.
The proprietress of the Thai House is named "Pip." She has three daughters, the youngest of whom is Pang who serves as hostess for her mom. Pang works in Bangkok--22 km to the SE of the Thai House--helping ex-pats relocate to Thailand. She helps me with bus routes into the city which cost 15 baht each way as opposed to a way more expensive and less interesting taxi ride.
I spent Wednesday afternoon (January 21st) on a boat trip through the local canal system--the major transportation network here, like Venice. Temples everywhere, homes along the canals with red mail boxes nailed to pilings in the water, boats carrying propane tanks, boats carrying entire 7-Eleven speedy mart contents, boats with mailmen, boats with students, boats with workers returning from Bangkok.
Bangkok is busy, but less chaotic than Chennai. Tuk-tuk drivers are less agressive, shop keepers are not so much in your face. I walk the Royal Palace grounds with overwhelmed tourists from Russia, France, Sweden, etc. What a tour! The Emerald Buddha, a scale model of Angkor Wat, saffron robed monks, chanting visiting Buddhists from Japan and Korea. Best 35o baht I've spent so far.
Then on to the temple of the Reclining Buddha. The statue itself must be 40 meters long. The faithful buy pots of 1 baht coins to drop into pots as they walk around the Buddha. The sound of the coins dropping into the pots is like a flock of merry birds.
I walk along the riverfront market to catch the #516 bus back to the Thai House and another wonderful home cooked meal.
Tired and happy (and well fed) I drop of to sleep surrounded by teak and satin.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
Friday, January 30, 2009
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Chennai reflections
Beloved --
I have exhausted Chennai (for now) and have become exhausted by the city. . . .the noise, the pollution, the poverty, the language difficulties, the autorickshaw drivers, etc., etc. I'm leaving for Thailand tomorrow and hope to find a little tranquility in the hill country around Chiang Mai.
Before leaving, Anna and I have toured all the Chennai cultural sites mentioned in the "Lonely Planet" guide to S. India. I'm sure there are many more that we haven't come across.
What has impressed me besides all the ancient bronze sculpture and rock carving, some dating to the 4th century B.C.E, is the production of modern art work. We've seen some delightful oil paintings, watercolors, and tempura works. Some very pastoral and/or impressionistic. Quite a contrast from the elaborate ornamentation of the temple art and its derivatives.
And the quantity and quality of the cotton and silk fabrics here exceeds all expectations.
Of course the Bollywood MTV numbers that appear on every TV in every restaurant I've visited are hard to follow. Huge "production numbers" with elaborate costumes and every camera trick in the book are what prevails. The theme always seems to be boy meets girl, girl rebuffs boy, boy rises to the challenge, girl changes her mind but has to convince her parents, they run away in a very fast car/motorcycle chase. The music is quite lively and the dancing a wild combination of 1930s Hollywood, classical Indian, and rap. My mind is spinning.
The 'Hindu Times' reported that the day I went to Marina Beach (Jan 16th) to witness the Pongal festivities was the day that the largest crowds ever attended the outing. Security was tight. The paper reported over 5,000 security personnel in attendance half of them in plain clothes. There were uniformed police--both men and women--positioned every 10 meters or so along the main walkway. When I found a bit of shade to sit, have a drink of water, and empty the sand out of my Keens, I drew a small crowd of curious kids, all dressed in their holiday best. A police officer walked over to where I was sitting and kept the crowd from getting too close. I was a big draw, I guess. . . .a westerner sitting in the shade, drinking bottled water with his sandals off. The officer was very gentle with the kids, but very protective of "my space. "
After about 10 minutes, refreshed and cooled off (it was in the mid-90s by this time), I got up and moved on after giving the officer a heartfelt "Nandri"("Thank you"). He responded with the biggest smile I'd seen all day. A little Tamil goes a long way. Aside from the "auto" (tuk-tuk) drivers, everyone I've met in Chennai is very friendly, very helpful, and always smiling back at me.
During my four hour walk I don't remember seeing another westerner. . . .a real stranger in a strange, but hospitable, land.
And now to pack for Thailand and beyond.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
I have exhausted Chennai (for now) and have become exhausted by the city. . . .the noise, the pollution, the poverty, the language difficulties, the autorickshaw drivers, etc., etc. I'm leaving for Thailand tomorrow and hope to find a little tranquility in the hill country around Chiang Mai.
Before leaving, Anna and I have toured all the Chennai cultural sites mentioned in the "Lonely Planet" guide to S. India. I'm sure there are many more that we haven't come across.
What has impressed me besides all the ancient bronze sculpture and rock carving, some dating to the 4th century B.C.E, is the production of modern art work. We've seen some delightful oil paintings, watercolors, and tempura works. Some very pastoral and/or impressionistic. Quite a contrast from the elaborate ornamentation of the temple art and its derivatives.
And the quantity and quality of the cotton and silk fabrics here exceeds all expectations.
Of course the Bollywood MTV numbers that appear on every TV in every restaurant I've visited are hard to follow. Huge "production numbers" with elaborate costumes and every camera trick in the book are what prevails. The theme always seems to be boy meets girl, girl rebuffs boy, boy rises to the challenge, girl changes her mind but has to convince her parents, they run away in a very fast car/motorcycle chase. The music is quite lively and the dancing a wild combination of 1930s Hollywood, classical Indian, and rap. My mind is spinning.
The 'Hindu Times' reported that the day I went to Marina Beach (Jan 16th) to witness the Pongal festivities was the day that the largest crowds ever attended the outing. Security was tight. The paper reported over 5,000 security personnel in attendance half of them in plain clothes. There were uniformed police--both men and women--positioned every 10 meters or so along the main walkway. When I found a bit of shade to sit, have a drink of water, and empty the sand out of my Keens, I drew a small crowd of curious kids, all dressed in their holiday best. A police officer walked over to where I was sitting and kept the crowd from getting too close. I was a big draw, I guess. . . .a westerner sitting in the shade, drinking bottled water with his sandals off. The officer was very gentle with the kids, but very protective of "my space. "
After about 10 minutes, refreshed and cooled off (it was in the mid-90s by this time), I got up and moved on after giving the officer a heartfelt "Nandri"("Thank you"). He responded with the biggest smile I'd seen all day. A little Tamil goes a long way. Aside from the "auto" (tuk-tuk) drivers, everyone I've met in Chennai is very friendly, very helpful, and always smiling back at me.
During my four hour walk I don't remember seeing another westerner. . . .a real stranger in a strange, but hospitable, land.
And now to pack for Thailand and beyond.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Compassion and detachment
Beloved --
I woke up early on the 12th wrestling with the ideas of compassion and detachment. (One needs a lot of both to be long in India.) So I asked myself "did I accomplish compassion and detachment with my Habitat for Humanity trips to the Gulf Coast? Will Anna accomplish those two as a volunteer at Little Lambs?" Then I realized that throwing in the word 'accomplish' negates both compassion and detachment. If I analyze my actions, I have undone detachment and contradicted compassion. It's not compassionate if you label it compassionate, because your ego is suddenly there. You are not detached if you think about what you are doing even for one second. Jesus said, "Don't let your right hand know what your left hand is doing."
Compassion and detachment don't appear to be States of Being, but rather Paths to Follow. . . .joyfully taking each new step.
So here's a typical challenge: A lot of the kids here have learned--and learned very young--a good scam. "Two rupees, sir, for a 'school pen.'" From what I've been told by both teachers and school administrator's, pens are provided! How to respond?
Change of topic--
The three day harvest festival of Pongal is currently underway. Today, Thursday, is the day that the cattle are decorated as part of the celebration. Anna and I are going out for a city tour and hope to get some good pictures to share.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
I woke up early on the 12th wrestling with the ideas of compassion and detachment. (One needs a lot of both to be long in India.) So I asked myself "did I accomplish compassion and detachment with my Habitat for Humanity trips to the Gulf Coast? Will Anna accomplish those two as a volunteer at Little Lambs?" Then I realized that throwing in the word 'accomplish' negates both compassion and detachment. If I analyze my actions, I have undone detachment and contradicted compassion. It's not compassionate if you label it compassionate, because your ego is suddenly there. You are not detached if you think about what you are doing even for one second. Jesus said, "Don't let your right hand know what your left hand is doing."
Compassion and detachment don't appear to be States of Being, but rather Paths to Follow. . . .joyfully taking each new step.
So here's a typical challenge: A lot of the kids here have learned--and learned very young--a good scam. "Two rupees, sir, for a 'school pen.'" From what I've been told by both teachers and school administrator's, pens are provided! How to respond?
Change of topic--
The three day harvest festival of Pongal is currently underway. Today, Thursday, is the day that the cattle are decorated as part of the celebration. Anna and I are going out for a city tour and hope to get some good pictures to share.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
"Mahabs" (as the ex-pats call it)
Beloved --
Full moon over the Bay of Bengal on January 10th, on-shore breeze, lots of tourists, but the shop-keepers here don't seem too assertive. This seems a good place to buy some of the remaining items I need for Thailand--silk sleeping bag liner (originally a hammock), Odimos (bug juice), white cotton head scarf (invaluable for the dust and boiling sun).
The fishing boats here are painted with two or three broad bands of colors. The middle band, typically white, has "adverts" for Jesus or Ganesh or perhaps a hotel in the vicinity. (I subsequently found out that these are in gratitude for the people and organizations that materially helped the fishermen get back to work after the Boxing Day tsunami). The Sea Shore Restaurant--where I'm enjoying my daily Kingfisher Strong--has before and after pictures of the T-SUNAMI (sic). It looks to me as if it has been rebuilt to its former glory.
The touristy areas were the first to rebuild after the tsunami. The relief offices have closed shop; but the people in the outlying communities are still suffering terribly. As an example, a lot of the poor work in salt flats near the coast. Their resource (salt) was all washed away by the waves. It will take several more years to re-establish the salt works. In the mean time, they are barely scratching out a living.
I have met with the president of the local school council (Kumar) and his friend (Samsu) who are trying to continue the work begun by the NGOs immediately after the tsunami. It is much harder for them now, since what they are trying to do is less visible to the outside world. On my next visit to Mahabs, I'm going to tour the villages with Samsu to get some pictures. "In the hopes that people will continue to help," says Samsu. (Anyone wanting to volunteer is invited and will be put up for the length of your stay. I'll post e-mail contact information soon.)
I happened to be in Mamallapuram during the month long "Festival of the Dance 2008-2009" and took in two evening performances. The venue was spectacular (if small) with the backdrop of the bas relief "Penance of Arjuna" carvings and the ubiquitous goats climbing all over the rocks. (Anyone know enough geology to explain how all this granite got here?)
On Sunday the 11th I rented a bike for the day(IR 50 or about $1.00 for the day). The bike was a lot like the one I had on my paper route oh so many years ago in Chicago and was probably just as old. Rode the 15kms (one-way) to the Vedagirishvara Temple (Shiva) in Tirukkalikundram. There are over 550 steps to the top of the hill where the temple is located and is a famous pilgrimage site. It is famous for the myth/fact that two eagles (some guide books say kites) appear at the temple each day at noon to be fed by the priests. I must have missed them! It was a long hot bike ride. After a chicken biriyani and a beer, I was ready for a nap.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
Full moon over the Bay of Bengal on January 10th, on-shore breeze, lots of tourists, but the shop-keepers here don't seem too assertive. This seems a good place to buy some of the remaining items I need for Thailand--silk sleeping bag liner (originally a hammock), Odimos (bug juice), white cotton head scarf (invaluable for the dust and boiling sun).
The fishing boats here are painted with two or three broad bands of colors. The middle band, typically white, has "adverts" for Jesus or Ganesh or perhaps a hotel in the vicinity. (I subsequently found out that these are in gratitude for the people and organizations that materially helped the fishermen get back to work after the Boxing Day tsunami). The Sea Shore Restaurant--where I'm enjoying my daily Kingfisher Strong--has before and after pictures of the T-SUNAMI (sic). It looks to me as if it has been rebuilt to its former glory.
The touristy areas were the first to rebuild after the tsunami. The relief offices have closed shop; but the people in the outlying communities are still suffering terribly. As an example, a lot of the poor work in salt flats near the coast. Their resource (salt) was all washed away by the waves. It will take several more years to re-establish the salt works. In the mean time, they are barely scratching out a living.
I have met with the president of the local school council (Kumar) and his friend (Samsu) who are trying to continue the work begun by the NGOs immediately after the tsunami. It is much harder for them now, since what they are trying to do is less visible to the outside world. On my next visit to Mahabs, I'm going to tour the villages with Samsu to get some pictures. "In the hopes that people will continue to help," says Samsu. (Anyone wanting to volunteer is invited and will be put up for the length of your stay. I'll post e-mail contact information soon.)
I happened to be in Mamallapuram during the month long "Festival of the Dance 2008-2009" and took in two evening performances. The venue was spectacular (if small) with the backdrop of the bas relief "Penance of Arjuna" carvings and the ubiquitous goats climbing all over the rocks. (Anyone know enough geology to explain how all this granite got here?)
On Sunday the 11th I rented a bike for the day(IR 50 or about $1.00 for the day). The bike was a lot like the one I had on my paper route oh so many years ago in Chicago and was probably just as old. Rode the 15kms (one-way) to the Vedagirishvara Temple (Shiva) in Tirukkalikundram. There are over 550 steps to the top of the hill where the temple is located and is a famous pilgrimage site. It is famous for the myth/fact that two eagles (some guide books say kites) appear at the temple each day at noon to be fed by the priests. I must have missed them! It was a long hot bike ride. After a chicken biriyani and a beer, I was ready for a nap.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Little Lambs School (and moving day)
Beloved --
Spending the day with Anna at the school for under-priviledged kids was a highlight of my time in Chennai. Anna glows with the students and they all appear to love their "Anna Auntie." They also get a laugh, because Anna means "elephant" in Tamil. She hopes to extend her time at Little Lambs until the end of term (April, I believe). She seems to have found her calling, at least for the time being.
We also moved Anna from the place where she had a 2 hour commute to school to an apartment only 20 minutes away which is shared by the volunteers from Little Lambs. She is happy with her new digs and excited for the opportunity to do some cooking for herself.
[BTW: The beer ("Kingfisher Strong"), snacks, and bar food at the Beverly Hotel, Chennai, which is kind of my home base here, are worth the hastles of the traffic. Cold beer, soy nuts, savory snacks, and Chicken 65. This is the life!]
This weekend I will be visiting Mamallapuram (about 65 kilometers south of Chennai). Ancient temples, a beach, and way less traffic noise. It is so constantly loud in Chennai that I haven't been able to hear my own tinitus since I've been here!
I miss you and love you all,
Jim
Spending the day with Anna at the school for under-priviledged kids was a highlight of my time in Chennai. Anna glows with the students and they all appear to love their "Anna Auntie." They also get a laugh, because Anna means "elephant" in Tamil. She hopes to extend her time at Little Lambs until the end of term (April, I believe). She seems to have found her calling, at least for the time being.
We also moved Anna from the place where she had a 2 hour commute to school to an apartment only 20 minutes away which is shared by the volunteers from Little Lambs. She is happy with her new digs and excited for the opportunity to do some cooking for herself.
[BTW: The beer ("Kingfisher Strong"), snacks, and bar food at the Beverly Hotel, Chennai, which is kind of my home base here, are worth the hastles of the traffic. Cold beer, soy nuts, savory snacks, and Chicken 65. This is the life!]
This weekend I will be visiting Mamallapuram (about 65 kilometers south of Chennai). Ancient temples, a beach, and way less traffic noise. It is so constantly loud in Chennai that I haven't been able to hear my own tinitus since I've been here!
I miss you and love you all,
Jim
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Kumily, Kerala, India (and Periyar Wildlife Sancturary)
Beloved --
On New Year's Day Anna and I flew to Madurai where we toured the city on January 2nd. After lunch we caught a taxi for the 4 hour ride to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary in the state of Kerala. It is described in the "Lonely Planet" as an Indian Disneyland. The difference here is that the elephants, water buffalo, deer, kingfishers, and snakes (both in and out of the water) are real.
We took in a Kathakali dance performance--very stylized traditional dance usually performed in Hindu temples as part of a festival. Then there was an elephant ride. I didn't appreciate just how wide elephants are. I don't usually stretch that far in yoga class. Ouch! But it was worth it. Anna participated in washing down the elephant after our ride. We both had a ball!
We also took in a Kerala traditional martial arts performance. They use real swords. Sparks were flying everywhere. What athletes--agile, flexible, fast, disciplined.
This area of Kerala is also known for cultivation of many Ayeurvedic herbs. We saw several areas under cultivation, mixed in with the herb farms and coffee plantations. Being high in the Western Ghats, the climate was pleasantly cool--Anna was "freezing" and had to get an extra blanket at night. But the air was clean and the stars were beautiful
We spent one day in the nature sancturary, including a three-hour nature walk, a bamboo raft float, and a late afternoon boat trip on Lake Periyar to see the wildlife. We saw a herd of elephants exhibiting an interesting behavior. There was one baby in the herd. When the elephants sensed the approach of our boat, they circled around the baby so that it became almost completely hidden. How protective.
I did have one relection: Injury happens quickly, while healing takes time. This is not great wisdom. It is only observation. I was only on the bamboo raft for a short time, but the leeches attacked my feet unnoticed in seconds. (I had wondered why all the park rangers were wearing gaiters.) After scrubbing and disinfecting the five bloody spots, the healing started by the next morning and all that remains now is a minor itch. I was reassured that the only danger from the leeches is from scratching the bites to the point of infection. That's not the impression I got from watching "African Queen!" Maybe Bogart was overly dramatic?!?
There are some odd place names between Kumily and Madurai, Cumbum for example. This stretch of road is also notable for the many rude brick factories, which featured live firing of the bricks by burning down the building in which the bricks were stacked. Our driver explained that the clay, which is very red in this part of India, is the best in all of Tamil Nadu for making bricks and that they are exported to the rest of India. "They last up to fifty years," he pointed out.
We also say corn fields along the way. That surprised me, since I don't think much about corn being a part of the Indian diet. So much to learn!
Anna returned to Little Lambs School today (Wednesday, 7 January). I will be introduced to her students tomorrow and have been put on notice to behave myself. This weekend I plan to spend time in Mammalapuram (about 50 kilometers south of Chennai) exploring the temples and beach.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
On New Year's Day Anna and I flew to Madurai where we toured the city on January 2nd. After lunch we caught a taxi for the 4 hour ride to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary in the state of Kerala. It is described in the "Lonely Planet" as an Indian Disneyland. The difference here is that the elephants, water buffalo, deer, kingfishers, and snakes (both in and out of the water) are real.
We took in a Kathakali dance performance--very stylized traditional dance usually performed in Hindu temples as part of a festival. Then there was an elephant ride. I didn't appreciate just how wide elephants are. I don't usually stretch that far in yoga class. Ouch! But it was worth it. Anna participated in washing down the elephant after our ride. We both had a ball!
We also took in a Kerala traditional martial arts performance. They use real swords. Sparks were flying everywhere. What athletes--agile, flexible, fast, disciplined.
This area of Kerala is also known for cultivation of many Ayeurvedic herbs. We saw several areas under cultivation, mixed in with the herb farms and coffee plantations. Being high in the Western Ghats, the climate was pleasantly cool--Anna was "freezing" and had to get an extra blanket at night. But the air was clean and the stars were beautiful
We spent one day in the nature sancturary, including a three-hour nature walk, a bamboo raft float, and a late afternoon boat trip on Lake Periyar to see the wildlife. We saw a herd of elephants exhibiting an interesting behavior. There was one baby in the herd. When the elephants sensed the approach of our boat, they circled around the baby so that it became almost completely hidden. How protective.
I did have one relection: Injury happens quickly, while healing takes time. This is not great wisdom. It is only observation. I was only on the bamboo raft for a short time, but the leeches attacked my feet unnoticed in seconds. (I had wondered why all the park rangers were wearing gaiters.) After scrubbing and disinfecting the five bloody spots, the healing started by the next morning and all that remains now is a minor itch. I was reassured that the only danger from the leeches is from scratching the bites to the point of infection. That's not the impression I got from watching "African Queen!" Maybe Bogart was overly dramatic?!?
There are some odd place names between Kumily and Madurai, Cumbum for example. This stretch of road is also notable for the many rude brick factories, which featured live firing of the bricks by burning down the building in which the bricks were stacked. Our driver explained that the clay, which is very red in this part of India, is the best in all of Tamil Nadu for making bricks and that they are exported to the rest of India. "They last up to fifty years," he pointed out.
We also say corn fields along the way. That surprised me, since I don't think much about corn being a part of the Indian diet. So much to learn!
Anna returned to Little Lambs School today (Wednesday, 7 January). I will be introduced to her students tomorrow and have been put on notice to behave myself. This weekend I plan to spend time in Mammalapuram (about 50 kilometers south of Chennai) exploring the temples and beach.
I love you and miss you all,
Jim
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